Lab Grown Diamonds We Should Know

Learn everything you need to know about lab - grown diamonds and different characteristics that make them so attractive as a natural center - stone alternative.

Creation of Lab - Grown Diamonds

WHAT ARE LAB - GROWN DIAMONDS?

Lab - grown diamonds (also referred to as man - made, lab - created, or synthetic diamonds) are a popular alternative to natural, earth - mined diamonds. Lab - grown diamonds possess the same chemical and optical properties as their natural counterparts. The only difference is their origin and how they are created. Lab - grown diamonds are, in fact, “real” diamonds. To quote the Gemological Institute of America (GIA), “The difference between lab - grown and natural diamonds could be compared to the difference between ice that formed outside on a winter's day versus
 ice that formed inside your refrigerator.”


Before delving into the topic of lab - grown diamonds, it's essential to understand how natural diamonds are formed.

Natural diamonds have a fascinating origin story that dates back millions or even billions of years. This understanding will provide a better backdrop for us to explore the differences between natural and lab - grown diamonds.

The Formation of Natural Diamonds

Millions, even billions, of years ago, natural diamonds originated from tiny carbon atoms deep within the Earth's crust (approximately 100 miles beneath the Earth's surface). These atoms were subjected to extreme heat and pressure, which led them to crystallize and form diamonds. Simultaneously, magma was forming near the planet's surface and expanding at rapid rates. This expansion caused the magma to "erupt," forcing the crystallized carbon atoms, now diamonds, to the Earth's surface, where they could be mined.

The Methods of Creating Lab - Grown Diamonds

In contrast, there are two methods for creating lab - grown diamonds: High - Pressure High Temperature (HPHT) and Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD). The method used to create a lab - grown diamond is stated on the grading report. There is no conclusive evidence indicating that one approach is superior to the other, as the finished products appear identical to the naked eye.

The HPHT Method

The HPHT method is most similar to how natural diamonds are grown. In this method, an environment is created where extreme heat (up to 2200°F) and extreme pressure (1.5 million pounds per square inch) are applied to a carbon seed. After a careful cooling process, pure carbon forms around the original seed, which is then used as the rough diamond. In total, this process can take several days to weeks, depending on the size of the diamond being created.

Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD)

Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) diamonds are made under less intense conditions and in a slower developing process, taking around 6 to 12 weeks. A small diamond seed is placed inside a sealed chamber and subjected to intense heat, sometimes reaching 1500°F. Hydrogen and methane are introduced to the chamber and then ionized to break down molecular bonds, thus causing a pure carbon atom to attach itself to the seed. As the carbon builds, it forms atomic bonds with the diamond seed, creating one, larger diamond.

Durability and Appearance of Lab - Grown Diamonds

Because lab - created diamonds have the same chemical and visual characteristics as natural diamonds, they also possess the same attributes that make natural diamonds highly sought - after for both jewelry and industrial use.

The hardness of a lab - grown diamond ranks 10 on the Mohs scale, making it the most durable gemstone. While also having a high refractive index, it gives the diamond a beautiful sparkle - exactly like a natural diamond. Lab - grown diamonds can be cut into every same shape that natural diamonds can: from round and oval down to heart and marquise.

For these reasons, lab - grown diamonds make beautiful options as the center - stone for engagement rings.


The 4C's of Lab - Grown Diamonds

Lab - grown diamonds are graded on the same scale as their natural counterparts and have a similar spectrum of colors, inclusions, cuts, and sizes.

Color

During the growth process, color can be introduced to the lab - grown diamond, which will give it a tint of yellow or brown and negatively impact its color grade. The more colorless the diamond, the more desirable it is. Those in the D - H color range are most popular for lab - grown diamonds. With natural diamonds, there is more willingness to explore lower color ranges due to the higher costs associated with natural stones.

Clarity

Inclusions are imperfections that form within a diamond during its growth process; the same occurs for both lab - grown and natural diamonds. These inclusions can vary in synthetic diamonds based on the method used to grow them and can also help differentiate between the types of formation (natural or lab - grown). For both HPHT and CVD diamonds, there are outside elements used as catalysts to help grow the diamond. During this process, any of the catalysts can become trapped within the diamond's structure and become inclusions. For the most part, GIA identifies all inclusions within lab - grown diamonds as “Growth Remnants", regardless of the inclusion's shape or size. As with natural diamonds, lab - grown diamonds can also have feathers, which are surface - reaching inclusions that occur during the cutting process.

Cut

Identical to natural diamonds, lab - grown diamonds are cut and polished to maximize sparkle and brilliance. A cut grade is only assessed for round brilliant finishes as it can be quantified based on its angles, proportions, and measurements. Fancy shapes (non - rounds) are based on their visual appearance and a wider range of factors. Parallel to natural diamonds, there are premium cut cushions and radiants that have sharper facets on the pavilion and less hidden weight underneath to give them a brilliant appearance. There can also be variations in length - to - width ratios for all shapes, so selecting the right one for you is based solely on preference.

Carat

Diamonds are measured in carats, which is simply how much the stone weighs once placed on a scale. The carat weight of a diamond is only an indication of how large it will look. The cut of the stone and its depth/proportions will also impact its face - up appearance.

Grading

Lab - grown diamonds come with individual, independent grading reports from reputable laboratories such as the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) and the International Gemological Institute (IGI). Each diamond has a unique report number which, in many cases, is laser - inscribed on the girdle of the stone.

Both gemological labs use the same grading system as natural diamonds, with a color range of D to Z and a clarity range from “Flawless” to “Included”. They will also provide cut, polish, and symmetry grades, with an inclusion plot pinpointing the location of any inclusions found within the stone.

Identifying Lab - Grown Diamonds

Because lab - grown and natural diamonds possess the same physical and optical properties, it is nearly impossible for the untrained eye to see any difference between the two. While specially trained gemologists may be able to use a magnifying tool to indicate growth patterns or the presence of elements that would help distinguish one from the other, the most trusted method is to use a testing machine. These expensive tools are usually reserved for laboratories and jewelers and can help identify certain characteristics that would be conclusive of the diamond's growth origin. A trusted jeweler should always disclose the origin of the diamond and provide a grading report from an independent third - party such as the GIA or IGI.

Pricing of Lab - Grown Diamonds

Price & Value

This is perhaps the most questioned aspect of lab - grown diamonds since they are a relatively new phenomenon in the jewelry industry. While demand for these man - made gems has been increasing, the technology for creating them has been evolving at a faster pace to make them more efficiently, which has caused an increase in the supply versus the demand. As with any surplus of goods, this has caused the price to steadily decline over the past few years.

Compared to natural diamonds, lab - grown diamonds are generally priced at discounts of 30 - 65%, depending on the size of the stone. At the time of this article, the gap between the two is widening as natural diamond prices are on the rise while lab - grown diamonds, which are showing signs of steadying, have been edging lower. Similarities between the two types of diamonds include exponential pricing (the price - per - carat increasing as carat weight increases) and premium pricing for higher - quality stones (colorless and VS clarity as well as cut stones). As an example, a 2 - carat colorless/VS clarity natural diamond could be $20,000 while a lab - grown diamond with the same specifications can be around $5,000.

Why Choose Them

Why Choose a Lab - Grown Diamond?

There are many reasons why someone may choose a lab - grown diamond as the center stone for their custom engagement ring. First of all, it is important to reiterate what has been mentioned above: they possess the same beauty and durability as natural diamonds. Many who choose lab - grown diamonds point to the fact that they are ethically sourced and eco - friendly as being a factor in why they selected this center stone over a natural diamond. Finally, the price point; having something that looks identical to a natural diamond at a fraction of the cost is very enticing. This allows the consumer to save the difference or allocate more of their engagement ring budget towards a beautiful custom - design setting.

If you're on the hunt for (or designing) an engagement ring, the best starting point is the diamond shape. Are you a fan of classic shapes like round or princess? Or do you dig the art - deco vibes of asscher or emerald cuts? Maybe you're into elongated shapes such as pear, marquise, or oval. Or perhaps you're all about something totally out - there, like a hexagon, kite, or coffin cut? Feeling a bit overwhelmed? No worries! Keep reading to learn about all types of diamond cuts, why we're crazy about them, and how to make the right choice!


Once you've zeroed in on the shape(s) you like best, check out our in - depth guide on that specific stone shape. It'll spill the beans on picking the biggest, most beautiful diamond within your budget for that particular diamond shape.

Cut and Shape

Cut vs shape

Okay, here's where things might get a bit tricky. You might see the terms "cut" and "shape" used interchangeably, but they actually mean totally different things. Diamond shape is all about the actual physical form of the diamond (like round, oval, hexagon). On the other hand, "cut" refers to aspects like proportion, facets, and polish of a diamond's cut. So, even though you often hear diamond shapes called "princess cut" and "asscher cut", they're really talking about the diamond's shape, not its cut.

Round Diamonds

 

 

The most popular of all diamond shapes, round diamonds make up over 75% of all diamond purchases. And for good reason - perfectly symmetrical with 57-58 precise facets, round diamonds are the sparkliest cut of them all and truly the LBD of diamond shapes. If you're looking for a timeless diamond shape that can be set in infinite ways, a round brilliant diamond may be for you

Oval Diamond

 

 

An ultra flattering, finger-elongating shape, oval cut diamonds are effortlessly chic and have recently become an engagement ring favorite. With a brilliant cutting style and the same 58 facets found on round diamonds, they're incredibly sparkly and shine bright in every light. Oval diamonds look bigger than their carat weight thanks to their elongated outline.

An oval diamond has the just-right balance between a timeless round diamond and a majestic marquise diamond.

Pear Cut Diamonds

 

 

Pear shape diamonds (sometimes called teardrop diamonds) are shaped just like their fruity namesake except with a much pointier tip. A brilliant cut diamond, pear diamonds sparkle and shimmer shamelessly. Thanks to their elongated shape, they look bigger than their carat weight and slim the look of your finger. And the best part - they're noticeably less expensive than other diamond shapes, meaning you get a bigger diamond for your budget - yes please!

If you like versatility, a pear shaped diamond gives you options - wear it point side up or point side down for two different looks in one diamond shape.

 

Emerald Cut Diamonds

 

 

Emerald cut diamonds are step-cut diamonds - step cuts have long parallel facets with a hall of mirrors, never-ending staircase vibe. Most emerald cuts are usuallu rectangular but you can also find them in square. With an architectural art-deco energy, emerald cut diamonds have a soft candlelit shine and give off unexpected flashes of light vs the shine-all-the-time sparkle of a round diamond.

Emerald cut diamonds are less expensive than comparable round brilliant diamonds, yet look larger - wins all around I tell you.

Cushion Cut Diamonds

 

 

An updated version of the old mine cut diamond, cushion cuts are a square or rectangular shape with rounded, pillowy edges. Cushion cuts have a romantic, vintage vibe we can't help but love.

Cushion cut diamonds are the fieriest diamond shape - giving off the most colored light of any diamond. And if you love variety, cushion cuts deliver - you can choose from square vs rectangular, chunky vs crushed ice, and standard vs modified cushion cuts.

A unique shape that's not often chosen, cushion cuts are less expensive, meaning you'll get a bigger diamond for your budget.

Radiant Cut Diamond

 

 

A lesser known yet incredibly aesthetic diamond shape, radiant cut diamonds blend the can't-stop sparkle of a round diamond with the angular drama of an emerald cut. The second most sparkly shape, radiant cut diamonds are cut with 70 precise facets for a diamond disco ball effect that shines all day and night.

As if there weren't already enough reasons to love a radiant cut diamond, they're less expensive that round diamonds and look larger than almost every other diamond shape out there.

Marquise Diamond

 

 

A modified brilliant cut, marquise diamonds are an incredibly unique and underrated shape that we can't get enough of. With their dramatic height, marquise diamonds combine the finger flattering magic of an oval diamond with the pointed peaks of a pear for a statement-making shape that's timeless yet head-turning.

Shaped like an eye with curved sides and pointed tips, marquise cuts can be set right side up for a more traditional take or east-west for an unexpected twist. Like a few of their other elongated friends, marquise diamonds are less expensive than the ever-popular round diamond, yet look the largest of all diamond shapes for the same carat weight.

Asscher Cut Diamonds

 

 

A striking step cut, asccher cut diamonds are square with cropped corners. They have a kaleidoscope vibe with a seemingly endless staircase of stacked diamond squares. Beloved for their clean, geometric lines, asscher cuts embody the art deco, architectural aesthetic.

Like emerald cuts, asschers give off flashes of bright light in their signature spontaneous fashion - a shape with surprises, I tell you. Like most step cut diamonds, asscher cut diamonds show inclusions more, so you'll want to prioritize clarity with this diamond shape.

Princess Cut Diamonds

 

 

Princess cut diamonds gained their name for a reason - their perfectly square, pristine shape feels regal, timeless, and definitely throne-worthy. With 50 to 58 facets, princess cuts are one of sparkliest diamond shapes, coming in second only to round brilliant diamonds in both sparkle and popularity.

Less expensive and larger looking than round diamonds, princess cut diamonds check all the diamond boxes. And our favorite part: princess cuts give you options - set it square as expected or twist it for a kite-like vibe that'll keep them guessing.

Heart Shaped Diamond

 

 

The literal symbol of love, heart shaped diamonds are undeniably romantic and meaningful in engagement rings and love-yourself rings alike. A cousin to the pear shape, a heart shaped diamond has the same pointed bottom and rounded top with a single cleft carved into the curve to create a heart.

One of the most challenging cuts to create, heart shaped diamonds require an extremely skilled cutter to achieve that striking symmetry and perfectly defined dip.

Baguette & Tapered Baguette Diamonds

 

 

Usually used as accent stones, baguette diamonds are tall, slim step cut rectangles. Available in straight or tapered, the straight variety is perfectly rectangular, while the tapered type is slightly angled inward on one end.

Unlike emerald cuts which have cut corners, baguette diamonds have sharp edges on all four sides. With just 14 facets, baguettes are less outright sparkle and more candelit glow.

Half Moon Diamonds

 


Resembling the half - profile of the moon, half moon diamonds appear as if a round diamond has been precisely bisected. One side features a straight edge, while the other showcases a smooth curve. These diamonds are available in either brilliant cut or step cut, each cut imparting a distinct allure.


As a distinctive and unconventional diamond shape, half moon diamonds are typically employed as accent stones. 

Kite Cut Diamonds

 

 

Shaped much like the kite you'd fly on a breezy childhood day, kite - cut diamonds have the form of a rhombus, boasting straight edges and sharply angled corners. They're a

 perfect blend of modernity and uniqueness, effortlessly catching the eye. It's the kind of stone that exudes an understated cool, making it a favorite among those with an edgy style.

One of our favorite side stone shapes, we also love them as the main stone.

 

Trilion & Triangle Diamonds

 

 

Shaped like a triangle with three equal sides, trillion diamonds can either have straight angular sides or softer rounded edges. Usually used as accent stones, trillions are equally exciting (maybe more so) when set as the star of the show. Thanks to their cut, trillion diamonds are larger than any other diamond shape of the same carat weight and are significantly less expensive than most. So if you're looking for a lesser-chosen, eye-catching option, keep trillion diamonds in mind.

 

Heart Shaped Diamond

 

 

The literal symbol of love, heart shaped diamonds are undeniably romantic and meaningful in engagement rings and love-yourself rings alike. A cousin to the pear shape, a heart shaped diamond has the same pointed bottom and rounded top with a single cleft carved into the curve to create a heart.

One of the most challenging cuts to create, heart shaped diamonds require an extremely skilled cutter to achieve that striking symmetry and perfectly defined dip.

Coffin Cut & Calf Cut Diamonds

 

 

Both vaguely coffin shaped, coffin cut diamonds and calf cut diamonds have six sides. The calf cut diamond is a slightly shorter, wider version of the coffin cut and both are available in step cut or brilliant cut. Both shapes are usually used as side stones, however you know we love an unexpected center stone shape over here.

Your diamond shape questions answered

What are the different shapes of diamonds?

There are countless different shapes of diamonds including round brilliant, oval, pear, marquise, emerald cut, asscher cut, cushion cut, radiant cut, princess cut, heart shaped, kite cut, coffin cut, shield cut, trillion, hexagon, octagon, seminavette, epaluette, baguette, and half moon.

Which shape is best for diamonds?

It depends on what you're looking for! The most popular and classic diamond cut is round brilliant. If you'd like a larger looking stone that elongates the finger, opt for an oval, marquise, or pear shaped diamond. If you're after a more art deco energy, try out step cut diamonds like emerald cut or asscher cut. And if you want a completely unique stone that no one else has, consider a hexagon, octagon, shield, or kite cut diamond.

What is the classic diamond shape called?

The most classic diamond shape is a round brilliant diamond - created with 58 facets and set proportions for maximum, fire, sparkle, and brilliance.

What is a fancy diamond shape?

Any diamond other than a round brilliant diamond is considered a fancy diamond shape. Scroll up to learn all the diamond shape names and how to choose between them depending on your preferences and aesthetic.